
Based on 14 ratings:
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Easiest to use small graphical lcd
about 3 years ago by Chiel verified purchaser
It is a small graphical lcd with backlight on a sturdy pcb with probably one of the easiest to use controller ever
at a ludicrously cheap price! what else could you want. if you are new to the joy of electronics and want to try
coding for graphical screens this is the best starting point i can think of!
1 of 1 found this helpful:
Be Careful at 5V
about 3 years ago by Member #670968 verified purchaser
We ran it at 5V and I think it might have blown our LCD. We were having trouble getting it to display anything,
and when it finally did, it was very dim. Then eventually it displayed nothing at all.
Tried another LCD (same model), running at 3.3 this time, and it worked great!
So, be careful running it at 5 V.
Also, listen to the other members who recommended changing the contrast setting in initialization. You might
need to play around with it, but you will get there eventually.
3 of 3 found this helpful:
Very good display, I've used several
about 3 years ago by RobotCamera verified purchaser
There are a few things you need be aware of here.
Dirty connections: I have found that one of my units would randomly stop working or flicker, or alternate
between being too dim or being too dark, and this was clearly a physical problem (pressing on the board made
the problem change). The problem, as I discovered, was dirty contacts on the board and screen itself. I
unclipped the board and found dust particles on the contacts. Cleaned both sets of contacts with cotton swabs
and rubbing alcohol, and the problem was resolved.
Contrast setting: I think most of the difficulties people are having here stem from trying random hardcoded
contrast settings. The proper way to do this is to allow for adjustable contrast settings by the end user. The
acceptable range is between 0x80 (being a contrast value of 0) and 0xFF (being a contrast value of 127). The
ideal contrast setting will change with ambient temperature. This is why I suggest making your contrast setting
changeable on-the-fly, through your microcontroller software. Whether by a trimmer, or buttons, or whatever.
For typical room temperature, a good value is likely to be around 0xBF. That’s where mine is at. If it’s too dark,
decrease by increments of 1 until you find the ideal value, if too light increase by increments of 1. I have
buttons on my device that do this and I save the user-selected contrast setting to EEPROM. The code for
changing the contrast on the fly is easy. Set the SCE pin to low to enable the serial interface. Set the D/C pin
to low (which tells the LCD you are sending commands, not pixel data), then send byte 0x21 which enables the
extended instruction set, then send the contrast byte, then send byte 0x20 which returns to the basic
instruction set. You do not need to reset the panel or anything like that.
Hardware SPI: use it. It makes the display so much more responsive. For this, connect the MOSI line to the
microcontroller’s MOSI pin, and the SCK line to the microcontroller’s SCK pin. Then, avoid using the MISO and
SS lines of the microcontroller unless you know what you’re doing. On a ATMega328 chip, as found in Arduino
UNO, Pro, and Pro mini, the MOSI and SCK lines are digital pins 11 and 13, respectively. Then you want your
library to communicate with the LCD using SPI. Easy to do. The LCD’s speed is 4Mhz, data is sent most
significant bit first (MSBFIRST), the data clock is idle when low (Clock Polarity/CPOL = 0), and samples are
taken on the rising/positive edge of clock pulses (Clock Phase/CPHA = 0). So for Arduino SPI, that means
using SPI_MODE0. It’s all downhill from there and you can chain multiple devices to SPI. It’s wonderful.
I have a working library for this LCD that uses hardware SPI that I’m pretty happy with, and plan to release
under MIT license on github sooner or later. If there is demand I can rush that process.
Definitely run this LCD on 3.3V. Don’t even think of 5V. Not even a little bit. You should be able to put a voltage
dropping resistor on the Vin pin, though, if you don’t have a 3.3V regulated output.
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